Coup de Gras
An offbeat dessert worth its $25 price tag
Two toast toppers--one low-brow, one luxurious--come together in the Foie and Nutella. The Black Hoof's most inventive dessert to date. A seared, darkly caramelized three-ounce slab of duck liver arrives sparkling with Maldon salt. The liver is perched on a slice of banana bread that's been baked in rich buttermilk custard until it's as dense and creamy as a bread pudding. The plate is streaked with Nutella, sprinkled with crumbled hazelnut shortbread cookies, dotted with sherry-rosemary gastrique and finished with peppery lovage cress. Rich, sweet, salty, sour, creamy and crunchy, the bizarre combination of ingredients is a revelation.The bizarre combination of ingredients sounds like the definition of wretched excess.